Nepal is a land of mountains and the heaven for the professional climbers as it has many magnificent mountains for climbing. Mount Kanchenjunga standing at the elevation of 8586m is the third highest peak in the world and one of the coolest expeditions in the Nepal Himalayas. The first successful summit was accomplished by the British team in 1956. Kanchenjunga consists of four summits. Kanchenjunga (8586m) range is situated in the extreme north-east of Nepal. The west summit Yalung Kang which is 8505m, people often classify it as a separate 8000m peak. Kanchenjunga range is aligned north to south along Nepal-Sikkim boarder.

Derived from a Tibetan word ‘Kanchen’ and ‘Dzonga’ “Kanchenjunga” means “The Five Treasures of Great snows” as it contains five peaks, Kanchenjunga I (8586M), Kanchenjunga West or Yalung Kang (8505m), Kanchenjunga Centra (8482m), Kanchenjunga South (8494m) and Kangbachen (7903m). The five treasures of great snow represents five repositories of God, which are gold, silver, gems, grain, and holy books.

Kanchenjunga expedition has combined elements of remoteness and challenging technical climbing on a huge massif. Mt Kanchenjunga is situated on the rural border between Nepal and Sikkim. Kanchenjunga attracts relatively very few trekkers, due to this reason it retains much of its pristine beauty, mystery and charm. There are two major famous summit routes in Kanchenjunga. The normal climbing route along the southeast side of the mountains from Yalung glacier. British expedition group of Joe Brown and George Band made the first ascent on May 25. A full team which also included John Clegg (team doctor), Charles Evans (team leader), John Angelo Jackson, Neil Mather and Tom Mackinnon. British expeditions group made a total of six camps above their base camp, two below the shelf, two on it, and two above it.

Enormous mountain mass, Kanchenjunga Expedition and many other satellite peaks rise from its narrow icy ridges. Climbing to the summit is very technical, even in the normal route. This makes this extremely interesting to climb with technical and intricate mixed rock, ice climb to the North of Col.

There are two Base camps to the summit. Kanchenjunga North base camp on the Kanchenjunga Glacier and the Kanchenjunga South base camp on Yalung Glacier. Both access to the camp is possible from Suketar (2400m). It is both possible to drive or take a flight to Suketar. North base camp via North col is a normal route. The normal route doesn’t mean the easiest route but it is the safe route with the least technical challenge. There are five main peaks in Kanchenjunga, (main, central and south) are on the border of North Sikkim district of India and Taplejung District of Nepal. The other two are completely in Taplejung District.  Kanchenjunga was believed to be the highest mountain in the world until the British Great Trigonometric survey made in 1849 crowned Mt. Everest (known as peak XV) as the highest peak and Kanchenjunga the third highest peak. The climbers need around 2 months of the climbing period for the expedition. Kanchenjunga is not recommended for inexperienced technical climbers.

The ascent trek from Suketar to the Base camp is very interesting. Crossing the amazing remoteness, cultures and very rare endemic flora with 30 varieties of rhododendron and 69 varieties of orchids. Kanchenjunga climbing begins from a charming base camp in the meadows of Panorama at 5,180m. One of the very first challenges is to fix lines up 900m of intricate mixed climbing to the north col. After creating north col you can begin the process of establishing three camps up the long and complicated North ridge. Normal route via North col and North face is the safer route with technical climbing. Amazing views from the camp overlooking the Kanchenjunga Glacier, Kanchenjunga I and Kangbachen. Difficult section is to the North Col which is about 500m of mixed ice and rock climb.  From the col, the climb can be typically done with three camps ascending slowly to the summit.

Kanchenjunga Expedition outline itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel, D, Hotel

Day 02: Preparation day and sightseeing, B, Hotel

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Suketar 2420m and trek to Lali Kharka 2200m 4hrs, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 04: Trek from Lali Kharka to Khesewa 2100m 5hrs, BLD, Teahouse / Camp 

Day 05: Trek from Khesewa to Mamankhe 2030m 6hrs, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 06: Trek from Mamankhe to Yamphudin 2150m 6hrs, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 07: Trek from Yamphudin to Lamite Jungle Camp 3415m 7hrs, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 08: Trek from Lamite Jungle Camp to Tortong 2995m 6hrs, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 09: Trek from Tortong to Tseram 3870m 6hrs, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 10: Rest and acclimatization day, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 11: Trek from Tseram to Ramche (Ramchaur) 4580m 4hrs, short excursion and back to Ramche, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 12: Acclimatization day in Ramche (rest day), BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 13: Acclimatization day in Ramche (rest day), BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 14: Trek from Ramche to Glacier Camp 4890m 5hrs, BLD, Camping

Day 15: Trek from Glacier Camp to Kanchenjunga Base Camp 5180m, BLD, Camping

Day 16 - 56: Climbing Session (Kanchenjunga summit 8586m and back to the base camp), BLD, Camping

Day 57: Trek from Kanchenjunga base camp to Ramche, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 58: Trek from Ramche to Tortong, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 59: Trek from Tortong to Yamphudin, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 60: Trek from Yamphudin to Khesewa,BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 61: Trek from Khesewa to Suketar, BLD, Teahouse / Camp

Day 62: Fly from Suketar to Kathmandu, B, Hotel

Day 63: Free and relaxing day in Kathmandu, BD, Hotel

Day 64: International departure and warm farewell, B, Flight.

Kanchenjunga Expedition detailed itinerary
BLD denotes Breakfast Lunch and Dinner

Kanchenjunga Expedition cost breakdown

Cost Include

• Airport pickup, drop and other transfers
• Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu with breakfast
• Domestic flights between Kathmandu and Suketar
• Teahouse accommodations if available or tented camping during trek with full board meals
• Tented camping accommodation during the climb with full freshly cooked meals
• Tea/coffee, snacks and seasonal fruits plus salads
• Complimentary welcome and farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with cultural performances
• English speaking, experienced trekking guide(leader), climbing guide (leader) and assistant guides
• Porter service (2 trekkers: 1 porter) and extra Sherpas for carrying camping gears and supplies
• Staff costs including their salary, equipment and insurance
• Duffel bag, down jacket and sleeping bag (to be returned after trip completion)
• Company t-shirt, certificate of appreciation and route maps
• All necessary paperwork and trekking plus climbing permits
• Best quality tents and kitchen utensils for camping
• Group climbing equipment
• Medical kit (carried by your guide)
• All government and local taxes

Cost Exclude

• Nepal visa fee and International flight (airfare)
• Personal expenses of any kinds
• Sightseeing and meals in Kathmandu
• Personal climbing gears and equipment
• Extra accommodation and meals behind schedule
• Travel and rescue insurance
• Tips to the staffs, mandatory